AJB Gardens

What is leaf mulching?

Leaf mulching is the process of shredding leaves with a lawnmower and using them as a mulch on your gardens and lawn.

Why leaf mulch?

Soil Enrichment:
Leaf mulch returns nutrients back to the soil. Your lawn and gardens will require less fertiliser and other additives.

Water Conservation:
Leaf mulch helps retain moisture in soils. When soil is covered with leaf mulch, the mulch lowers the soil’s exposure to sun and wind which reduces evaporation.

Saves Money:
By managing your leaves on site, you reduce the need to buy garden waste bags.

Insulation:
Mulch acts like an insulating barrier from the heat in the summer, from the cold in the winter and from the wind all year round. Mulch prevents compaction and erosion of soils from wind and rain.

Weed Control:
Leaf mulch can help prevent the growth of weeds.  Add a thick layer (5 to 7.5 cm or 2 to 3 inches) to gardens to reduce the need for weed killers and chemicals.

Leaf Mulching Tips:
Keep your mower blade sharp.
Set your mower blade to 6 cm (2.5 inches) high.
Mow leaves when dry to prevent clumping.
Push lawnmower slowly to give mower time to chop up leaves.
Mow leaves when there is no more than 2.5 cm (1 inch) of leaf litter.
When adding mulch to gardens, do not put mulch right up to the base of plants or trees and make the mulch no deeper than 5 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inches).
If your lawnmower collects garden waste, either remove the bag to spread mulch evenly over the lawn, or use the bagged mulch where necessary around trees, shrubs and gardens.

You may be able to convert your mower to a mulching mower by purchasing a mulching blade retrofit kit which is available at garden centres. Mulching blades chop up leaves many times, producing very small leaf pieces. If you use a garden maintenance company, ask them to leaf mulch.

What can you do with leaf mulch?

Leave it on your lawn:
Use your lawnmower to chop up leaves and leave the pieces on your lawn. It is important to make sure leaf pieces are small enough to let light get through to your grass. This may require you to mow twice where there is a lot of leaf litter.

Dig leaves into your garden:
Dig leaves directly into your garden to add organic matter and nutrients to the soil.

Use leaves as mulch:
Put leaf mulch on gardens and flower beds and around trees and shrubs.

What can you do if leaf mulching is not possible?

Compost your leaves:
Add thin layers of leaf mulch (2.5 cm or 1 inch) to your composter while alternating with other materials. You can also use a separate composter for only leaves. For a leaf composter, alternate 15 cm (6 inches) of leaf mulch with a thin layer (2.5 cm or 1 inch) of soil or finished compost and maintain as usual by turning it regularly and keeping it moist. Put your leaves in garden waste bags or your green wheelie bin (if you have one) and set out for bin men on your scheduled collection days.

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The effects of cold

Cold weather, particularly frost, causes the water in plant cells to freeze, damaging the cell wall. Frost-damaged plants are easy to spot, their growth becomes limp, blackened and distorted. Evergreen plants often turn brown and the leaves of tender plants take on a translucent appearance. Frost problems are often made worse where plants face the morning sun, as this causes them to defrost quickly, rupturing their cell walls.

Hardy plants and tough evergreens can also be damaged by prolonged spells of severe cold when soil becomes frozen. Roots are unable to take up water and plants die from lack of moisture. Periods of cold, frosty weather during April and May can also kill blossom and damage fruit.

Minimising damage

Prevention is far better than cure, so try to minimise the damaging effects of cold on your plants:

• Avoid golden or variegated plant varieties that are often more tender.
• Choose plants that are reliably hardy in the area where you live.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as they encourage plants to make lots of sappy leafy growth that is particularly susceptible to damage, especially early and late in the year.
• Make sure tender specimens are planted in a sheltered spot, under large trees and shrubs or against walls, give them some heat and protection during the winter.
• Ensure that plants with tender flower buds or shoots are not planted in east-facing sites.
• Leave the old growth of tender plants unpruned over the winter months. This will help to protect the central crown of the plant and take the brunt of any frost damage. If plants are cut back hard in autumn new growth could be damaged by frost.
• Cold air and frost always descend to the lowest point in a garden so avoid planting tender plants in obvious frost pockets.

Protecting plants

The ever-increasing number of tender plants on offer may not withstand sustained cold without some form of protection. How you protect your plants from the effects of cold depends on the type of plants and the situation they are growing in.

• Plants that are trained against walls or tender plants growing in the open ground can be protected with simple, fleece-covered frames. Alternatively, sandwich a layer of bracken leaves or straw between two large sections of chicken wire and use this to cover plants during frosty evenings. Tender bulbs, corms and tender, herbaceous plants (that die back) should be covered with a thick mulch of manure, straw or old leaves to prevent the soil from freezing. In the spring, new shoots can be protected with a loose layer of straw or a bell-cloche.
• Evergreen plants will benefit from a thick layer of mulch around their bases to keep the soil frost-free. This will allow them to take up moisture during periods of cold weather and stop them from becoming dehydrated.
• Tender plants should be grown in pots so that they can be moved inside during bad weather. Take cuttings of those that cannot be grown in pots and overwinter these in a warm greenhouse, ready for planting in spring.
• Protect the crowns of tree ferns and insulate their trunks by wrapping them in layers of fleece or hessian stuffed with straw. Cordylines and palms should be treated similarly, by tying their leaves into bunches, to protect their crowns.
• Protect low-growing plants from wet weather by covering them with a sheet of glass or a cloche and surrounding them with a layer of gravel or grit, to ensure swift drainage.
• Choose outdoor containers that are frost-proof to prevent them cracking. Lift pots and containers into a shed or greenhouse for protection. Those that can’t be moved should be placed on ‘pot feet’ to prevent waterlogging. Using a light, free-draining compost with added perlite will also help with this. Insulate them with a layer of bubble wrap or hessian to prevent them freezing and cracking and ensure plant rootballs stay healthy.

Damaged plants

If your plants do get frosted this doesn’t necessarily mean the end for them, many plants will recover given time. However there are ways of minimising the damage:

• Protect them from the morning sun, which can damage growth if the plant defrosts too quickly. If you can’t move the plants, try covering them with a layer of black plastic to block out the sun.
• Cut back frosted growth in spring to a healthy, new bud, to prevent further die back and encourage plants to produce fresh, new shoots.
• Feed damaged plants with a balanced fertiliser (one with equal amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) to encourage strong, healthy growth.
• Dig up small, tender plants and take them into the greenhouse. Many will quickly produce new growth and recover, provided they are not subjected to prolonged periods of heavy frost, wet or cold.
• Newly-planted specimens will often lift themselves proud of the soil surface if there is a hard frost straight after planting. Check them regularly and re-firm the ground around them to ensure their roots are always in contact with the soil.

Dealing with snow

The benefit of snow is that it acts as an insulator, protecting plants from the cold and frost, however, a heavy layer of snow can also cause leaves and branches to break, so it’s important to know how to deal with it when it arrives:

• Shake excess snow from the branches of large trees, shrubs and hedges, to prevent them from becoming disfigured by the weight.
• Remove heavy deposits of snow from the roofs of greenhouses or cold frames to let in the light and prevent the structures from bending under the weight.
• Use lengths of string to support the branches of conifers and stop them being pulled out of shape. Branches that move away from the main plant won’t spring back into place when the snow melts.
• Avoid walking on snow-covered grass as it will damage the turf beneath and leave unsightly marks on the lawn. It can also encourage the growth of fungal diseases which thrive in the cool damp conditions.

Winter can seem like a sad time to dedicated gardeners. Your favorite patch of ground lies dormant, maybe ice or snow-covered, but definitely brown. Don’t let the inactivity get you down though because winter is actually a wonderful time for your garden.

Getting your garden ready for winter is the best way to make sure that it is ready to burst out in all of its glory when spring arrives. All you need to do is provide a little tender loving care in the fall and then let Mother Nature put your garden to sleep for the winter.

Preparing your garden for the winter doesn’t have to be a lot of work. In fact, depending upon the size of your garden, you can likely get it all wrapped up in an afternoon.

Start by removing all of the dead plants and flowers and prune back all of your bushes or you’ll risk having to do it in the spring when it’s really too late.

Next pull up all of the weeds and rake up fallen leaves and other garden debris which has accumulated. Be sure not to leave the piles of leaves on your grass through the winter because they will do damage to your lawn. If you have a compost pit then let them spend the winter there.

You can also use the leaves to cover your vegetable beds. Simply turn the soil over with a garden fork or spade and then cover the dirt with a layer or leaves or grass. Make sure that the weeds have been removed though. No sense giving them a chance to take root! Don’t spread the layer to thick. You want just enough to act as a mulch as it breaks down over the winter to make the soil richer and prevent early spring weeds from germinating when the ground starts to get warm.

Next you should plant your spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips. Try a little variation and plant them in clusters instead of in rows. This makes wonderful bursts of color in your garden and is a great way to welcome spring.

You may need to cover your fragile plants and shrubs depending upon the climate zone that you live in. Place leaves or other mulch thickly around the roots and consider covering the entire plant with burlap if you live in a hard freeze area.

Now all that’s left is to clean up your garden tools and get them into your garage or shed for their winter vacation. Make sure that all garden fertilizers and chemical packaging is sealed tightly to keep out moisture. Dispose of all expired products according to label instructions. Empty out your sprayers and dispose of their contents properly as well.

That’s it! Your garden us ready to rest through the winter season and you can rest as well secure in the knowledge that you’ve done all you can to help ensure that your garden will be healthy and happy come the long awaited spring.

Call for free advice! Whatever your garden, tree or landscaping problem may be! 07875 557378

Have you moved into a property with an overgrown garden? Does it look like a jungle? We can help you start afresh and end up with the garden you want.

AJB Gardens offers a complete garden clearance service allowing you to redesign your outside space. Overgrown shrubs, trees and stumps, turf, patios and ponds can all be cleared and removed from the site with no fuss. Ready to design the garden of your dreams!

Tame your overgrown garden!

Snow Gritting
Fencing and Trellising
Pathways and Patios
Decking
Turfing
Festival / Event Preparation (before/after)
Lighting and Irrigation
Children’s Play Areas
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Shed Bases and Felting
Regular or Seasonal Grounds Maintenance
Chainsaw /Lawnmower Servicing

For safe and effective chainsaw operation having correct chain tension is necessary. As the chain wears, significant stretching will occur. After five to ten cuts a new chain may need to be readjusted. Separation from the guide bar or binding into the wood can occur if the chain is loose. Premature chain and guide bar wear will be caused by a tight chain. A chain that is well adjusted will move easily and smoothly when pulled by a gloved hand. Binding or sagging by the chain should not occur. The chain tension should be checked and adjusted if needed before every use.

A manual or automatic chain oiling system is used in most chainsaws. Friction and heat builds between the chain and guide bar without oil. The oil also helps the individual links in the chain operate smoothly at high speeds. Check the oiling system prior to every use.

Tighten all of the screws and fasteners. This chainsaw servicing should be done before every use. Before using your chainsaw each time you need to inspect the fuel system.

Service your chainsaw after only 10 hours use
After every 10 hours of use you need to clean or replace the air filter on your chainsaw. By replacing the air filter on a regular basis your chainsaw will be able to run cooler and use less fuel.

The chainsaw sprocket tip should be lubricated after every 10 hours of use. You will know that lubrication is complete when a small amount of grease appears at the edge of the guide bar near the sprocket.

For every 10 hours of use the chainsaw guide bar should be turned. Flip the guide bar over to promote an even wear pattern on the bottom and top of the bar. Inspect the chainsaw spark plugs after every 10 hours of use and cleaned or replaced as necessary.

For every 10 hours of use the spark arrester screen should be inspected and cleaned and replaced when necessary. The spark arrester screen prevents sparks from leaving the exhaust port and hurting the operator or falling on flammable materials.

The chainsaw fuel filter should be replaced after every 20 hours of use. Poor performance can result if the filter becomes clogged.

Service your chainsaw for performance and safety
To ensure the maximum performance perform the following procedures as needed to prolong the life of your chainsaw. Take your chainsaw to an authorized dealer if the carburetor needs adjustment. The chain blades should be sharpened periodically as they become dull.