AJB gardens is a first class soft landscaping service and garden maintenance services company that offers a wide range of specialist gardening services to both commercial and residential customers in Essex and Upminster.

No matter the size large or small we offer keen prices for all your gardening needs Additionally we provide a qualified tree surgeon service in Essex and offer a friendly, helpful service we never forget you have a choice.

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Here are 10 spring garden tips.

1. Remove annuals. If there are dead annuals still your garden from last year, remove and discard them.

2. Tidy up flower beds. Clean out leaves, branches and other debris that has accumulated in your garden over the winter.

3. Prune perennials. If you have perennials in your garden that you did not cut back in the fall, they should be pruned in the spring once your see new growth at the base of the plant. Prune them back to ground level for the healthiest spring growth.

4. Trim ornamental grasses. Any ornamental grasses that were left uncut through the winter should be trimmed to ground level in the early spring. There is no need to wait until you see new growth to do this chore.

5. Prune roses. If you live in a climate where rose bushes go dormant during the winter, early spring is the right time to prune them. However, only prune mature rose bushes (those that have been in the garden two or three years). Prune roses when leaf buds begin to swell. A rule of thumb that many gardeners use is to prune roses when forsythia is in full bloom. Cut off all dead, broken or damaged stems. Shape the rose bush as you prune and clean out the middle of the bush, which will allow better air circulation and healthier growth.

6. Weed. Weed your garden in the early spring before you plant, transplant and mulch. Spring weeding usually is fairly easy, since the soil generally is moist and weeds have not had time to grow strong root systems.

7. Divide and transplant. Most perennials can be divided and transplanted in the spring. When, how and how often to divide will vary depending on the variety, so do a little research before you start this process. Generally, dividing perennials in the spring is relatively easy, and it will result in more vigorous and healthier plants.

 8. Prune some trees and shrubs. Spring blooming trees and shrubs like azaleas, forsythias, lilacs, and rhododendrons shouldn’t be pruned until after they bloom in the spring, but there are other trees and shrubs that can be pruned and shaped while they are still dormant, such as Bradford pears, flowering dogwood and wisteria.

9. Start seeds indoors. Determine the right time to start flower and vegetable seeds by estimating when the last hard frost is likely to occur in your growing region and then count back based on the growing time for the plants you want to grow.

10. Prepare the soil. One of the most important things you can do to prepare your garden for spring is to be sure that the soil is healthy and rich. When the soil is dry enough to work in the spring, till it, add fertilize or organic matter (such as compost or manure) then till it again to mix well.

Would you like to surprise a friend or family member with a gift voucher for an amount of your choice, to be spent on any of our services at their leisure?

Alternatively, you could surprise them with a specific service. AJB offers the recipient a fantastic choice of what to spend their voucher on. They can choose from anything from a simple grass cut and tidy to a total garden makeover! There is no job or amount too small.

The gift certificate can also be used as a part-payment.

Please call, and we will be delighted to help you select the appropriate service!

Choosing the right plants is the key to success for beginners. You probably don’t want to start right off with Orchids or other tricky plants like that. Here are a few plants that you should be able to grow with beautiful results. You may just find that once you have had a little success, you just can’t resist beautifying your house with more.

A Few Key Tips

It really isn’t hard to grow beautiful house plants. If you keep the basics in mind, your plants will thrive. Plants have few requirements: water, light, fertiliser and a good pot. If you place the right plants in the right spots, you will be rewarded with lovely greenery.

Peace Lily

This is a very common house plant for beginners. It has very many dark green, sword shaped leaves which grow out from the soil. As your plant thrives, it will fill up the entire pot.  A Peace Lily is also called a Spathiphyllum. It will occasionally produce white flowers, or Spathes.

Peace Lilies are easy plants to grow. They require low light and are not fussy. You may be able to grow a Peace Lily in a bright spot which is not near a window. I have mine about six feet from an east window and it does very well. They will not like to be in a south facing window, however. It is way too bright and they will burn.

Keep your Peace Lilly somewhat moist, but do not over water it. That is the leading cause of death of houseplants. If in doubt, do not water. The Peace Lily will get a little droopy when it is dry. Generally, you will want to water it when the top of the soil feels pretty dry. You can add in some all purpose fertiliser at half strength every time you water.

You will know your Peace Lily is truly thriving when it starts to flower. It will put up green spathes which turn white. They are quite lovely and resemble Calla Lilies. If you don’t get any flowers from your Peace Lily, try moving it to a location with a little more light. You might have more success.

Snake plant 

Another easy to grow plant is the Snake Plant. These are hard to kill, except with over watering. Again, the rule is that when in doubt, wait to water. The top of the soil should feel fairly dry.

The Snake Plant is also called the Mother-in-Law’s tongue, as it has long sword shaped leaves with pointy tips. The leaves will emerge directly from the soil and the plant will multiply to fill the pot.

Keep Snake Plants in low light areas, similar to the Peace Lily. You can have them a few feet away from a window. A north facing window may not get as much light, so it’s best to put them right in the window. Keep them further away from south facing windows as they do not like this much light.

Again, some diluted fertiliser every time you water will help your plant thrive. Try taking a break from it now and then in the winter months.

Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia are lovely plants. There are many varieties and they are easy to grow. The usually have long oval shaped leaves and may be variegated. If you have pets or small children, be careful. These plants can be poisonous. They are also called Dumb Cane. If they are ingested, they release toxins which may cause altered behaviour and throat swelling. This can even lead to death.

Dieffenbachia are low to medium light loving plants. They will do fine in almost any window. If they are in a South facing window, make sure they get sun which is filtered, such as through a sheer curtain. They will burn if they get too much sunlight.

I have seen dieffenbachia grow to ten feet tall over time with great growing conditions. However, most are much smaller. With a little care, your Dieffenbachia will thrive too.  Again, do not over water it and give it some diluted fertiliser. It will reward your for years to come.

Spider Plant

One last house plant that is good for beginners and easy to grow is the Spider Plant.  The Spider Plant looks lovely as a hanging plant and is easy to care for and propagate.  It will send off long shoots with little plantlets which can be rooted and grown as new plants.

Spider plants will like more light than any of the others I have mentioned so far. If you must put them in a South facing window, be sure to shield them by filtering the sun with a sheer curtain.  Otherwise the plant will become very light green and may die.  This is a sign that your plant is getting too much light.

A west or east facing window is probably a good spot for a Spider Plant. If yours is in a hanging basket, it will look great hanging in the window. Again, water carefully and don’t over water. You will soon have a bushy plant with long narrow variegated leaves.

Get Growing

So, if you have gotten a new plant, or have always admired someone else’s green thumb, give these easy to grow house plants a try. You might just find out that you have the knack and can grow beautiful plants. Good luck!

If you want to fill your garden with colour next spring, plant bulbs from October to December, before the first frost.

How to buy bulbs

Most bulbs have a long dormant period, requiring little attention for much of the year. When buying bulbs check they’re healthy and as fresh as possible, or your spring show could be a washout.

Avoid any that are damaged, shrivelled or feel soft, and go for plump, firm bulbs. Aim to plant within a week or they’ll start to sprout. When possible, check that the plants have been obtained from reliable growers, rather than from stock that has been collected from the wild.

Where to plant

Choose bulbs according to location and soil type. Most hardy bulbs originate from the Mediterranean, thriving in a warm, sunny climate in freely draining soil. Good drainage and plenty of sunshine is key, since most bulbs are prone to rot while dormant.

Herbaceous borders

Planting bulbs in a herbaceous border will help to fill in gaps and provide colour and interest before perennials and shrubs begin to grow in early spring. Plant daffodils, winter aconites, tulips and fritillarias for outstanding colour. Drifts of single species can be planted to blend in with the general planting scheme of the garden, or try mixing different varieties to create an even and striking effect of bright colour.

Formal planting

When planted en masse, spring-flowering bulbs make a valuable contribution to formal bedding displays. Try growing groups of early-flowering tulips in a bed which will be occupied by annuals later in the summer. As a general rule, the larger, showy varieties are better suited to a formal position in the garden.

Naturalising bulbs

Many spring-flowering bulbs are ideal for brightening up the base of trees before they come into full leaf. The soil beneath trees is moist and light, offering the perfect growing conditions for scillas, anemones, erythroniums and crocuses.

Bulbs such as dwarf daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops and winter aconites can transform a dull looking lawn into a wonderful display of colour. To achieve a natural look, throw bulbs up in the air and plant them exactly where they land in the grass. The aim is to make it look as though they have decided to grow there by themselves. Allow plants to die down after flowering before mowing over the lawn. Alternatively, plant bulbs in defined areas so that it’s possible to mow the lawn around them.

Bulbs in pots

If you want a great patio display, try growing bulbs in pots. Keep it simple by planting a variety on its own or several of the same variety packed closely together for a bumper show. Several types can be planted together, but it’s tricky to get the flowers to appear at the same time.

What to do

How to plant

• Bulbs are some of the easiest garden plants to grow, needing only a well-drained soil and some sunshine. As a general rule, plant bulbs two to three times their own depth and around two bulb widths apart.
• It’s important to plant bulbs with its top facing upwards. If unsure, plant the bulb on its side.
• Replace the soil after planting, breaking down any large clumps and firm in gently, making sure there are no air spaces around the bulbs. 

Bulbs in lawns

• Naturalise bulbs in lawns by taking a handful and dropping from waist height.
• Plant where they land with a strong trowel or bulb planter – these are ideal for digging into heavy clay soil. To use, push the cylindrical blade down, twist and pull up a plug of soil.
• Drop the bulb in, flattest side down, and crumble the plug into the hole.
• In order to save time, try planting a large number of small bulbs by lifting a piece of turf and planting a group of bulbs in the soil. 

Bulbs in pots

• When growing bulbs in a pot, pick a container that is the right size and will complement your chosen bulbs.
• If you are using a clay pot with a large drainage hole in the base, cover it with a piece of broken pot.
• Fill pots with general-purpose compost, mixed with a handful of horticultural grit to improve drainage.
• Water after planting.

Aftercare

• Bulbs in pots need more care than those in soil.
• Keep the compost moist and protect from frost by wrapping with bubble wrap over winter. Cover with a piece of chicken wire to prevent squirrels, mice and voles from digging them out. Remove it when shoots appear.

Five easy bulbs to try

• Narcissus ‘Tête-à-Tête’ – a compact variety with golden trumpets in early spring. Plant with snowdrops in the lawn.
• Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’ – striking purple flowers and is perfect in a big pot with wallflower ‘Bowles’ Mauve’
• Scilla siberica ‘Spring Beauty’ – a lovely plant with blue bell-shaped flowers in spring. Plant at the base of trees or naturalise in grass
• Fritillaria meleagris – wonderful, purple, bell-shaped flowers look perfect naturalised in grass
• Crocus vernus ‘Pickwick’ – this variety has delicate white flowers, veined with deep purple. Crocuses come in many shades, from white to purple, and flower from early spring. Naturalise or plant them in small pots

Spring flowering bulbs are easy to grow and a most welcome sight after a long winter. With a little care at planting time, spring blooming bulbs will reward you with years of blooms. But which bulbs are best, which will the animals leave alone and which end is up, anyway?

Here are answers to frequently asked questions about planting, choosing and caring for spring flowering bulbs.

1. When’s the best time to plant my bulbs?

 That really depends on where you live. Bulbs need several weeks in the ground to get their root systems growing before the ground freezes. However what you don’t really want is for the bulbs to sprout above ground, because this will deplete some of the energy stored in the bulb to get it through the winter. So gardeners in the coldest zones should plant their bulbs in late August and September. Gardeners in warmer zones should wait until the temperatures start to dip in September and can continue until early November. Bulbs planted in the warmest climates obviously aren’t going to get a chilling period, so these rules don’t apply.

2. Does it matter which end it up?

That’s a good question. Although the growing end will find its way up toward the warmth of the sun, it will have an easier time of it if it’s planted in the right direction to begin with. Bulbs with pointed ends make it easy for you: the pointed end is the stem and it should be planted upward. Round corms and long tubers are more difficult. There are usually dried roots still attached to these, telling you which end should be planted down. When in doubt, guess – and trust the plant.

3. Should i mulch my bulbs? 

Mulch is almost always a good thing to do, it just depends on when you do it. In cold areas, we mulch to keep the soil cold. This is to prevent the soil from thawing too early and then refreezing, which makes bulbs and plants heave out of the ground. To prevent this, don’t mulch until after the soil freezes.

In warm climates we mulch to keep the ground cool. Gardeners in Zones 8 and above can go ahead and mulch after planting and watering.

4. Can bulbs be divided or transplanted? 

They can be, but it’s not as easy as with regular plants. The best time to move bulbs is when the foliage is just about gone. The plant is no longer actively growing, the bulb is recharged and you can still see where they are. Take care when digging that you don’t damage the bulbs themselves. Remember that bulbs tend to pull themselves deeper than they were originally planted and spread out. So start digging a few inches away from the plants and wait until the bulbs are loosened – don’t pull on the leaves.

5. What if I live in an area that doesn’t freeze? Can I still have spring bulbs?

Of course. However you will either want to plant bulbs that don’t require a chilling period or pre-chill your bulbs in the refrigerator for the winter and plant them outdoors in the spring.

6. Why do my tulip bulbs only last one year? Aren’t they perennial? 

 All tulips aren’t created equal and you need to experiment to see which tulips are well suited to your area. The popular Dutch hybrids prefer cooler climates while tulips native to the Mediterranean and Asia are better suited to warmer climates. Southern gardeners swear by T. clusiana ‘Lady Jane’ . In the north, Darwin tulips are some of the most reliable returnees.

Also, most tulips don’t like wet soil during their summer dormancy. Planting them in an area of your garden that you don’t water frequently will help their survival.

7. Do I have to keep foliage around after it turns yellow?

 The rule of thumb is to give them at least 8 weeks of growing, after the flowers fade. You can cut back the flower stem, but the fading foliage is necessary to feed the bulb for next year’s blooms. In fact, this is a good time to fertilize your bulbs, as they’re building up reserves.

If you haven’t hidden your bulbs among perennial plants that will fill in and camouflage the ugly foliage you can always interplant them with spring annuals like pansies, petunias and snapdragons. But don’t tie the leaves into little bundles, as was the fade a few years ago. It might look tidier, but the leaves can’t photosynthesize if they aren’t exposed to the sun.

8. Is there any way to keep squirrels and their relatives from eating my bulbs?

There’s no fail safe method, but there are a few tricks you can try. First, use a synthetic bulb fertilizer rather than bonemeal; bonemeal is just an invitation to the banquet.

Secondly, you can use a box or cover of hardware cloth or chicken wire as a barrier underground. They sell ready made bulbs cages, but you can also do this yourself. The easiest way to do this is to plant several bulbs in at once, in a wide hole, and cover them with the wire, before burying. Be sure to bend the wire down about an inch on each side, creating a cover over the bulbs.

Unfortunately, neither of these tricks will do you any good once the plants emerge. Deer & rodents will still be drawn to your tulips.

Fragrant Bulbs

• Lilies
• Hyacinth
• White Narcisis

Spring flowering Bulbs

• Daffodil
• Scilla
• Tulip
• Iris
• Chionodoxa
• Anemone

Summer flowering bulbs

• Allium
• Galtonia
• Lily
• Canna
• Gladioli
• Dahlia

Autumn flowering bulbs

• Colchicum
• Amaryllis
• Nerine
• Cyclamen Hederifolium
• Eucomis
• Sternbergia

Winter flowering bulbs

• Cyclamen Coum
• Winter aconite
• Snowdrop
• Hippeastrum
• Hyacinth

More tips

Spring flowering bulbs offer a reliable colourful display just when you need it most and they require very little effort. Choose bulbs suited to your area and many will improve year after year. The trick to growing large, healthy flowering bulbs is to prepare the soil well at planting. A rich, well draining soil with a balanced pH will feed the underground bulb and fuel the spring growth and flowers.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 – 60 Minutes per Dozen Bulbs

Here’s How:

1. Choose healthy bulbs. Avoid bulbs that are dry and withered, spongy or moldy. In general, the larger the bulb for its type, the more flowers.
2. Choose an appropriate location. Most flowering bulbs prefer full sun, but that can be almost anywhere in the spring, before the trees leaf out. So don’t overlook a spot that seems perfect, just because it’s a bit shady in the fall. Woodland bulbs (Anemone nemorosa (Woodland Anemone), Arisaema (Jack-in-the-Pulpit), Erythronium (Dog’s Tooth Violets), Galanthus (Snowdrops) and Trillium) prefer a bit of cool shade.

A well-drained soil will prevent the bulbs from rotting in cool weather.

In areas with cold winters, you can plant bulbs as long as the soil is soft enough to dig a hole. However they will have more time to begin growing roots if planted before mid-November.

In areas without a freezing winter, you may need to purchase pre-chilled bulbs, but you won’t have to plant your bulbs until early spring.

1. Plant with the pointed side up. The pointed end is the stem. You may even be able to see some shrivelled roots on the flatter side. If you really can’t tell, don’t worry about it, plant it on its side.
2. Plant bulbs to a depth of about 3 times their diameter. For Daffodils, that’s about 6 – 8 inches. Smaller bulbs can be planted to a depth of 3-4 inches and so on.
3. Mix some bone meal or superphosphate into the soil at the bottom of the hole at planting time, to encourage strong root growth. You could mix in some water soluble fertilizer as well, but it’s not necessary if you’ve already amended your soil.
4. If rodents tend to eat your bulbs, you can try sprinkling some red pepper in the planting hole. A more secure method is to plant your bulbs in a cage made of hardware cloth. The roots and stems grow through, but the rodents can’t get to the bulbs. Make it easy on yourself and make a cage large enough to plant at least a dozen bulbs. Or you can make it really easy on yourself and stick to daffodils, which rodents and most other animals avoid.
5. Replace the soil on top of the bulbs. Water the bulbs after planting, to help them settle in and close any air pockets. Through the fall and winter, you only need to worry about watering your bulbs if you’re having a particularly dry season. Come spring, you should be well rewarded for all your efforts.

Extra Tips:

1. For A Natural Effect: Bulbs look best in clumps or drifts. To get a natural looking effect, either dig a large area and plant several bulbs at once or simply toss the bulbs into the air and dig holes and plant where ever they fall. You’ll be surprised how well this works.
2. Mark Your Plantings: To make sure you don’t disturb your bulbs by trying to plant something in the same spot, mark where and what you have planted.
3. Spring Care: When your bulbs have finished flowering, cut back the flower stalks to ground level. It can get ugly, but let the foliage of your flowering bulbs dieback naturally. Resist the temptation to cut it back while still green, but floppy. The bulb needs this time to photosynthesize and make food reserves to produce next year’s flowers.
4. To Divide Bulbs: Many bulbs spread and increase, making the original planting over crowded. If your bulbs are flowering as well as they used to, this is probably the case. If you wish to move or divide your flowering bulbs, the safest time is when they enter their dormant period. This is usually just after the foliage completely dies back. Dormancy is brief, even though nothing is happening above ground, so don’t put this task off .

Leaf mulching is the process of shredding leaves with a lawnmower and using them as a mulch on your gardens and lawn.

Why leaf mulch?

Soil Enrichment:
Leaf mulch returns nutrients back to the soil. Your lawn and gardens will require less fertiliser and other additives.

Water Conservation:
Leaf mulch helps retain moisture in soils. When soil is covered with leaf mulch, the mulch lowers the soil’s exposure to sun and wind which reduces evaporation.

Saves Money:
By managing your leaves on site, you reduce the need to buy garden waste bags.

Insulation:
Mulch acts like an insulating barrier from the heat in the summer, from the cold in the winter and from the wind all year round. Mulch prevents compaction and erosion of soils from wind and rain.

Weed Control:
Leaf mulch can help prevent the growth of weeds.  Add a thick layer (5 to 7.5 cm or 2 to 3 inches) to gardens to reduce the need for weed killers and chemicals.

Leaf Mulching Tips:
Keep your mower blade sharp.
Set your mower blade to 6 cm (2.5 inches) high.
Mow leaves when dry to prevent clumping.
Push lawnmower slowly to give mower time to chop up leaves.
Mow leaves when there is no more than 2.5 cm (1 inch) of leaf litter.
When adding mulch to gardens, do not put mulch right up to the base of plants or trees and make the mulch no deeper than 5 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inches).
If your lawnmower collects garden waste, either remove the bag to spread mulch evenly over the lawn, or use the bagged mulch where necessary around trees, shrubs and gardens.

You may be able to convert your mower to a mulching mower by purchasing a mulching blade retrofit kit which is available at garden centres. Mulching blades chop up leaves many times, producing very small leaf pieces. If you use a garden maintenance company, ask them to leaf mulch.

What can you do with leaf mulch?

Leave it on your lawn:
Use your lawnmower to chop up leaves and leave the pieces on your lawn. It is important to make sure leaf pieces are small enough to let light get through to your grass. This may require you to mow twice where there is a lot of leaf litter.

Dig leaves into your garden:
Dig leaves directly into your garden to add organic matter and nutrients to the soil.

Use leaves as mulch:
Put leaf mulch on gardens and flower beds and around trees and shrubs.

What can you do if leaf mulching is not possible?

Compost your leaves:
Add thin layers of leaf mulch (2.5 cm or 1 inch) to your composter while alternating with other materials. You can also use a separate composter for only leaves. For a leaf composter, alternate 15 cm (6 inches) of leaf mulch with a thin layer (2.5 cm or 1 inch) of soil or finished compost and maintain as usual by turning it regularly and keeping it moist. Put your leaves in garden waste bags or your green wheelie bin (if you have one) and set out for bin men on your scheduled collection days.

Free local delivery!!!

Cold weather, particularly frost, causes the water in plant cells to freeze, damaging the cell wall. Frost-damaged plants are easy to spot, their growth becomes limp, blackened and distorted. Evergreen plants often turn brown and the leaves of tender plants take on a translucent appearance. Frost problems are often made worse where plants face the morning sun, as this causes them to defrost quickly, rupturing their cell walls.

Hardy plants and tough evergreens can also be damaged by prolonged spells of severe cold when soil becomes frozen. Roots are unable to take up water and plants die from lack of moisture. Periods of cold, frosty weather during April and May can also kill blossom and damage fruit.

Minimising damage

Prevention is far better than cure, so try to minimise the damaging effects of cold on your plants:

• Avoid golden or variegated plant varieties that are often more tender.
• Choose plants that are reliably hardy in the area where you live.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as they encourage plants to make lots of sappy leafy growth that is particularly susceptible to damage, especially early and late in the year.
• Make sure tender specimens are planted in a sheltered spot, under large trees and shrubs or against walls, give them some heat and protection during the winter.
• Ensure that plants with tender flower buds or shoots are not planted in east-facing sites.
• Leave the old growth of tender plants unpruned over the winter months. This will help to protect the central crown of the plant and take the brunt of any frost damage. If plants are cut back hard in autumn new growth could be damaged by frost.
• Cold air and frost always descend to the lowest point in a garden so avoid planting tender plants in obvious frost pockets.

Protecting plants

The ever-increasing number of tender plants on offer may not withstand sustained cold without some form of protection. How you protect your plants from the effects of cold depends on the type of plants and the situation they are growing in.

• Plants that are trained against walls or tender plants growing in the open ground can be protected with simple, fleece-covered frames. Alternatively, sandwich a layer of bracken leaves or straw between two large sections of chicken wire and use this to cover plants during frosty evenings. Tender bulbs, corms and tender, herbaceous plants (that die back) should be covered with a thick mulch of manure, straw or old leaves to prevent the soil from freezing. In the spring, new shoots can be protected with a loose layer of straw or a bell-cloche.
• Evergreen plants will benefit from a thick layer of mulch around their bases to keep the soil frost-free. This will allow them to take up moisture during periods of cold weather and stop them from becoming dehydrated.
• Tender plants should be grown in pots so that they can be moved inside during bad weather. Take cuttings of those that cannot be grown in pots and overwinter these in a warm greenhouse, ready for planting in spring.
• Protect the crowns of tree ferns and insulate their trunks by wrapping them in layers of fleece or hessian stuffed with straw. Cordylines and palms should be treated similarly, by tying their leaves into bunches, to protect their crowns.
• Protect low-growing plants from wet weather by covering them with a sheet of glass or a cloche and surrounding them with a layer of gravel or grit, to ensure swift drainage.
• Choose outdoor containers that are frost-proof to prevent them cracking. Lift pots and containers into a shed or greenhouse for protection. Those that can’t be moved should be placed on ‘pot feet’ to prevent waterlogging. Using a light, free-draining compost with added perlite will also help with this. Insulate them with a layer of bubble wrap or hessian to prevent them freezing and cracking and ensure plant rootballs stay healthy.

Damaged plants

If your plants do get frosted this doesn’t necessarily mean the end for them, many plants will recover given time. However there are ways of minimising the damage:

• Protect them from the morning sun, which can damage growth if the plant defrosts too quickly. If you can’t move the plants, try covering them with a layer of black plastic to block out the sun.
• Cut back frosted growth in spring to a healthy, new bud, to prevent further die back and encourage plants to produce fresh, new shoots.
• Feed damaged plants with a balanced fertiliser (one with equal amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) to encourage strong, healthy growth.
• Dig up small, tender plants and take them into the greenhouse. Many will quickly produce new growth and recover, provided they are not subjected to prolonged periods of heavy frost, wet or cold.
• Newly-planted specimens will often lift themselves proud of the soil surface if there is a hard frost straight after planting. Check them regularly and re-firm the ground around them to ensure their roots are always in contact with the soil.

Dealing with snow

The benefit of snow is that it acts as an insulator, protecting plants from the cold and frost, however, a heavy layer of snow can also cause leaves and branches to break, so it’s important to know how to deal with it when it arrives:

• Shake excess snow from the branches of large trees, shrubs and hedges, to prevent them from becoming disfigured by the weight.
• Remove heavy deposits of snow from the roofs of greenhouses or cold frames to let in the light and prevent the structures from bending under the weight.
• Use lengths of string to support the branches of conifers and stop them being pulled out of shape. Branches that move away from the main plant won’t spring back into place when the snow melts.
• Avoid walking on snow-covered grass as it will damage the turf beneath and leave unsightly marks on the lawn. It can also encourage the growth of fungal diseases which thrive in the cool damp conditions.

Getting your garden ready for winter is the best way to make sure that it is ready to burst out in all of its glory when spring arrives. All you need to do is provide a little tender loving care in the fall and then let Mother Nature put your garden to sleep for the winter.

Preparing your garden for the winter doesn’t have to be a lot of work. In fact, depending upon the size of your garden, you can likely get it all wrapped up in an afternoon.

Start by removing all of the dead plants and flowers and prune back all of your bushes or you’ll risk having to do it in the spring when it’s really too late.

Next pull up all of the weeds and rake up fallen leaves and other garden debris which has accumulated. Be sure not to leave the piles of leaves on your grass through the winter because they will do damage to your lawn. If you have a compost pit then let them spend the winter there.

You can also use the leaves to cover your vegetable beds. Simply turn the soil over with a garden fork or spade and then cover the dirt with a layer or leaves or grass. Make sure that the weeds have been removed though. No sense giving them a chance to take root! Don’t spread the layer to thick. You want just enough to act as a mulch as it breaks down over the winter to make the soil richer and prevent early spring weeds from germinating when the ground starts to get warm.

Next you should plant your spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips. Try a little variation and plant them in clusters instead of in rows. This makes wonderful bursts of color in your garden and is a great way to welcome spring.

You may need to cover your fragile plants and shrubs depending upon the climate zone that you live in. Place leaves or other mulch thickly around the roots and consider covering the entire plant with burlap if you live in a hard freeze area.

Now all that’s left is to clean up your garden tools and get them into your garage or shed for their winter vacation. Make sure that all garden fertilizers and chemical packaging is sealed tightly to keep out moisture. Dispose of all expired products according to label instructions. Empty out your sprayers and dispose of their contents properly as well.

That’s it! Your garden us ready to rest through the winter season and you can rest as well secure in the knowledge that you’ve done all you can to help ensure that your garden will be healthy and happy come the long awaited spring.