AJB Gardens

There seems to be an aphid for every occasion!  Also known as ‘blackfly’, ‘greenfly’ or ‘woolly aphids’, they display a wide variation in colour and appearance. 

Aphids overwinter as eggs on trees and shrubs.  In spring, as the weather warms up, the eggs hatch into aphids which then produce their own live young, (missing out the egg stage).  Thus vast colonies can build up very quickly. 

After several generations of wingless aphids, winged aphids are produced which migrate to new host plants.  Aphids feed by sucking out the plant’s sap, causing deformed or stunted plant growth, damaged fruits and flowers, and curled leaves, sometimes with galls and blisters.  Aphids can transmit viruses between plants, attract ants, and promote the growth of sooty mould.

There are many different species of aphids that are problems in the garden. Some are specific to certain plants, others are happy to hunt around for a wide range of plants that have the necessary lush or tender foliage!

Basically, greenfly and blackfly are the most common groups of aphids, but are sometimes other colours – pink or orange even. No matter the colour, they are all pests. The other aphids – such as mealy bugs – with their white waxed finish – are difficult to control. Same goes for woolly aphids.

Greenfly and blackfly both attract ants – which are rather partial to the honeydew secretion left by the feeding aphids. It is not correct to think that the ants will control the aphids – far from it.

Insecticide Sprays

Like it or not, the best of the insecticide chemical sprays are those of a synthetic – non organic – nature/manufacture. These can either be of a contact nature, where they will need to be sprayed on the aphids direct. Not normally a problem. The other type of chemical spray is the systemic spray which gets taken into the plant, and is then made available via the sap for these sap sucking insects. The systemic types are best applied to smaller plants where the chemical can easily be translocated through the plant system. This is not generally the case with large plants or shrubs. More effective control is by use of ‘contact sprays.

There are several organic sprays developed from natural toxins, including pyrethrum. These contact sprays will need to be actively applied all over the plant, and in particular under the foliage. They are not long lasting in effect, so may need more regular applications than their synthetic chemical counterparts.

Insecticidal horticultural soap can be used with some plants, and is claimed to give some success. So is ordinary household soapy water. The latter simply washes the aphids off – soon to return with seemingly no ill effects, but perhaps a little cleaner!

Pesticides/insecticides on fruit and other edible crops.

There are a number of pesticides which are suitable for edible crops, and these will be clearly marked on the label. You MUST read the label to ensure that you adhere to the instructions. In particular the recommended times between application and harvesting. Fruit bushes, vegetables of all types, ornamental plants, herbs and even chillies can be attacked by aphids.

Plants Infested By Aphids.

More or less any plant with good young foliage can fall prey to either blackfly or greenfly. Notably roses attract greenfly and Nasturtiums attract blackfly. Broad beans are notorious for providing a feast for blackfly.

Some potted plants can be infected by root feeding aphids. These are best dealt with by drenching the root ball – pot and all in one of the above treatments.

Natural Predators – The common Lacewing : Ladybird – Hover bees and wasps.

Ladybirds, Lacewing larvae and Braconid parasites do attack aphids, but rarely doing sufficient damage to aphid numbers to control infestation.  There are many proprietary sprays and ‘dusts’ on the market; Choose carefully according to the type of plant, (e.g. edible, ornamental), to be sprayed, bearing in mind the stage of development of the plant as well as the aphid!  Particular care is required when treating the Water-lily aphid if there are fish present in the pool or pond.

 Ladybirds are often killed off by use of insecticide sprays. It is a shame and counterproductive, for the ladybird’s first culinary choice, is a dish (or plant full) of aphids. The larvae of the ladybird in particular can devour several times it’s bodyweight of the little pest s in a day. Morale being, that if you see ladybirds on a plant, DO NOT SPRAY! Let nature take its course.

Companion Planting

Marigolds emit a scent which is repugnant to greenfly and blackfly aphids. Don’t be shy of planting a few of the larger growing African marigolds amongst your roses to help keep the pests away. The marigolds make a good colourful display as well. A bit of inter-planting with a row or two of French marigolds in the vegetable plot works wonders – especially with the lettuce. An added bonus is that the marigolds will be first target for slugs en route to your lettuce!

How to prevent Aphid blackfly and greenfly in the first place, is not something we are able to comment upon – other than experimenting with companion planting.

Before laying a turf lawn – or planting a lawn – it is important to ascertain the type of soil upon which you will be growing your lawn. Simply planting grass in soil already existent within the garden environment without checking its ability to sustain a healthy growing lawn is not enough and can cause you more difficulties later on.

There are different types of soil and different lawns that will flourish with them; these are the soil types that are most common:

• Clay
• Sandy
• Loamy
• Chalky
• Peaty

These soils are the most common to be found in the British Isles and are each, in their own way, excellent for growing varying types of shrubbery and plant. However, when it comes to growing and nourishing a lawn not all of these soils are suitable so it is best to check early on to find out which soil your garden contains.

Clay Soils

This type of soil is normally very sticky and pliable and often lumpy in wet conditions, but when they dry out they form hard clots. Clay soil is made up of fine particles, which contain little in the way of air spaces, making them hard to work with and at best difficult to drain.

Sandy Soils

Sandy soils are gritty and have formed from weathered rocks: the likes of limestone, shale and quartz. Should the soil contain enough in the way of organic matter then it is easy to cultivate most things within it but sometimes it is prone to over-draining and drying out in the summer months. Likewise, in the autumn and winter months it can have some difficulty holding on to moisture and nutrients making it a good soil to work with but a difficult one to keep topped up with everything your lawn would need to survive. A lot of additional work is involved.

Loamy Soils

Loamy soil is the one soil that most gardeners say is the perfect soil to grow in. Made up of around 40% sand, 40% silt and 20% clay Loamy soils have varying degrees of texture, which range from easily pliable soil to tightly packed clots. These are normally full of organic matter and drain well but generally still retain a lot of moisture and are rich in nutrients.

Peaty Soils

Containing more acidity than other soils, Peaty Soil contains a lot more organic material than other soils because the level of acidity slows down the level of decomposition. Also containing fewer nutrients than a lot of other soils it can be prone to an over retention of water. Using fertiliser and a strict gardening regime alongside a decent drainage system and this particular type of soil can be an excellent growing soil.

Chalky Soils

Normally light brown in colour, Chalky soils are of an alkaline nature and will usually contain stones of varying sizes. Drying out quickly in the summer and blocking out trace elements such as iron and manganese, it is definitely not a soil to try and establish plants or grass in. The quality of Chalky soil – it has to be said – is quite poor and needs a lot of regular work including the introduction of fertilisers and other soil improvers over a sustained period of time.

So, for growing your lawn it is safe to say that either Loamy or Peaty soils are the best to use for establishing and nurturing a lawn that will grow all year round and be visually pleasing on the eye. You could get away with having a soil such as a Clay or Sandy type but you should be aware that these would need a lot of additional work to help you on your way.

There are things you can do like increase the PH of your soil – or indeed lower it – should your lawn require it and more often than not your local garden nursery will be able to provide you with the best advice on how to go about this process as well as being able to supply you with all the required materials to help you get your soil just right for laying that first sod or planting that first batch of seeds.

How to Landscape: Garden Design for Beginners

The first step in learning how to landscape is assessing the existing property. Write down everything that needs to be trimmed, relocated or removed. Often, a beautiful landscape can be created from existing plants. This is great news for your budget. Some specimens will need to be relocated to a more suitable area. Sunlight requirements, rainfall and size are important considerations in finding the perfect spot for a particular plant. After trimming and removing everything on your list, set aside the plants you’d like to keep. If you won’t be transplanting today, you may choose to wait before removing anything. It’s easy to underestimate the time required to trim and clean up an overgrown yard. Now, take a look at your existing landscape. Focus on the garden beds. Are they attractive, healthy and pleasing to the eye? Your beds are the building blocks of your landscape. It helps to think of each bed as a separate landscape, so evaluate them individually, and if any need help, they can be quickly transformed.

How to Landscape: Garden Design for Planting Beds

Garden beds are easy when you know a few basic landscaping tricks. They can be drastically improved by creating natural, organic shapes. If your beds are constructed in straight lines or rectangles, you can improve them quickly by rounding the corners and making them asymmetrical. Try widening a portion on one side and curving the outline of the entire bed. If you’re needing more guidance, the following article takes you through the process in easy steps.

How to Improve Existing Garden Beds: Renovating the Rectangle

In many garden beds, perspective is often missing, and it’s quite simple to fix. Place the tallest plants in the back, the shortest in the front and the remainder in the middle. If your beds will be viewed from multiple angles, put the tallest plants in the center and decrease the height as you work outward to the edges. Three or more layers of different heights will create a lush, three-dimensional effect.

Content is equally important in your beds. Many landscape designs could be enhanced with greater attention to plant selection. Try using 40 to 60 % evergreens to provide a solid foundation and constant color. Add 25-40 % perennials and/or deciduous bushes for interest and variety. Always leave a small amount in the budget for colorful annual flowers to keep the landscape looking fresh. Pay close attention to whether your plants require sun or shade. It’s a shame to see so many sunburned, dried out hostas planted in full sun. You can finish your landscape with appropriate trees. Carefully-placed ornamental trees will add height, balance and drama to the landscape. Pay attention to mature height and spread. Make sure you have room for the tree to mature without overwhelming the rest of the garden.

We now offer a Sports/Surface line marking service.

Grass Line Markings are available for all Sports or any other Special Requirements.

Football pitch markings
Rugby pitch markings
Rugby pitch lines
Hockey pitch markings
Basketball
Rounders
Tennis court markings
Badminton court lines
Netball courts
Cricket
Volleyball

Athletic Tracks incl:
400 Metre Running Track (8 Lanes)
300 Metre Running Track (7 Lanes)
200 Metre Running Track (6 Lanes)
Discus, Shot Put and Javelin

We can produce lines on all outdoor Sports Surfaces including:

• Grass
• Synthetic

Hard Surface Outdoor Lines for:

• Tarmac
• Concrete
• School Playgrounds

Playground

• School Yard Lines/Games
• 5 a Side
• Basketball
• Tennis
• Running Lanes
• Grids (6m x 6m)
• Oval Tracks etc

Properly preparing your garden for spring will ensure that it flourishes all year long.

Here are 10 spring garden tips.

1. Remove annuals. If there are dead annuals still your garden from last year, remove and discard them.

2. Tidy up flower beds. Clean out leaves, branches and other debris that has accumulated in your garden over the winter.

3. Prune perennials. If you have perennials in your garden that you did not cut back in the fall, they should be pruned in the spring once your see new growth at the base of the plant. Prune them back to ground level for the healthiest spring growth.

4. Trim ornamental grasses. Any ornamental grasses that were left uncut through the winter should be trimmed to ground level in the early spring. There is no need to wait until you see new growth to do this chore.

5. Prune roses. If you live in a climate where rose bushes go dormant during the winter, early spring is the right time to prune them. However, only prune mature rose bushes (those that have been in the garden two or three years). Prune roses when leaf buds begin to swell. A rule of thumb that many gardeners use is to prune roses when forsythia is in full bloom. Cut off all dead, broken or damaged stems. Shape the rose bush as you prune and clean out the middle of the bush, which will allow better air circulation and healthier growth.

6. Weed. Weed your garden in the early spring before you plant, transplant and mulch. Spring weeding usually is fairly easy, since the soil generally is moist and weeds have not had time to grow strong root systems.

7. Divide and transplant. Most perennials can be divided and transplanted in the spring. When, how and how often to divide will vary depending on the variety, so do a little research before you start this process. Generally, dividing perennials in the spring is relatively easy, and it will result in more vigorous and healthier plants.

 8. Prune some trees and shrubs. Spring blooming trees and shrubs like azaleas, forsythias, lilacs, and rhododendrons shouldn’t be pruned until after they bloom in the spring, but there are other trees and shrubs that can be pruned and shaped while they are still dormant, such as Bradford pears, flowering dogwood and wisteria.

9. Start seeds indoors. Determine the right time to start flower and vegetable seeds by estimating when the last hard frost is likely to occur in your growing region and then count back based on the growing time for the plants you want to grow.

10. Prepare the soil. One of the most important things you can do to prepare your garden for spring is to be sure that the soil is healthy and rich. When the soil is dry enough to work in the spring, till it, add fertilize or organic matter (such as compost or manure) then till it again to mix well.

Now offering GARDENING GIFT CERTIFICATES!!!

Would you like to surprise a friend or family member with a gift voucher for an amount of your choice, to be spent on any of our services at their leisure?

Alternatively, you could surprise them with a specific service. AJB offers the recipient a fantastic choice of what to spend their voucher on. They can choose from anything from a simple grass cut and tidy to a total garden makeover! There is no job or amount too small.

The gift certificate can also be used as a part-payment.

Please call, and we will be delighted to help you select the appropriate service!

Easy Care House Plants

Choosing the right plants is the key to success for beginners. You probably don’t want to start right off with Orchids or other tricky plants like that. Here are a few plants that you should be able to grow with beautiful results. You may just find that once you have had a little success, you just can’t resist beautifying your house with more.

A Few Key Tips

It really isn’t hard to grow beautiful house plants. If you keep the basics in mind, your plants will thrive. Plants have few requirements: water, light, fertiliser and a good pot. If you place the right plants in the right spots, you will be rewarded with lovely greenery.

Peace Lily

This is a very common house plant for beginners. It has very many dark green, sword shaped leaves which grow out from the soil. As your plant thrives, it will fill up the entire pot.  A Peace Lily is also called a Spathiphyllum. It will occasionally produce white flowers, or Spathes.

Peace Lilies are easy plants to grow. They require low light and are not fussy. You may be able to grow a Peace Lily in a bright spot which is not near a window. I have mine about six feet from an east window and it does very well. They will not like to be in a south facing window, however. It is way too bright and they will burn.

Keep your Peace Lilly somewhat moist, but do not over water it. That is the leading cause of death of houseplants. If in doubt, do not water. The Peace Lily will get a little droopy when it is dry. Generally, you will want to water it when the top of the soil feels pretty dry. You can add in some all purpose fertiliser at half strength every time you water.

You will know your Peace Lily is truly thriving when it starts to flower. It will put up green spathes which turn white. They are quite lovely and resemble Calla Lilies. If you don’t get any flowers from your Peace Lily, try moving it to a location with a little more light. You might have more success.

Snake plant 

Another easy to grow plant is the Snake Plant. These are hard to kill, except with over watering. Again, the rule is that when in doubt, wait to water. The top of the soil should feel fairly dry.

The Snake Plant is also called the Mother-in-Law’s tongue, as it has long sword shaped leaves with pointy tips. The leaves will emerge directly from the soil and the plant will multiply to fill the pot.

Keep Snake Plants in low light areas, similar to the Peace Lily. You can have them a few feet away from a window. A north facing window may not get as much light, so it’s best to put them right in the window. Keep them further away from south facing windows as they do not like this much light.

Again, some diluted fertiliser every time you water will help your plant thrive. Try taking a break from it now and then in the winter months.

Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia are lovely plants. There are many varieties and they are easy to grow. The usually have long oval shaped leaves and may be variegated. If you have pets or small children, be careful. These plants can be poisonous. They are also called Dumb Cane. If they are ingested, they release toxins which may cause altered behaviour and throat swelling. This can even lead to death.

Dieffenbachia are low to medium light loving plants. They will do fine in almost any window. If they are in a South facing window, make sure they get sun which is filtered, such as through a sheer curtain. They will burn if they get too much sunlight.

I have seen dieffenbachia grow to ten feet tall over time with great growing conditions. However, most are much smaller. With a little care, your Dieffenbachia will thrive too.  Again, do not over water it and give it some diluted fertiliser. It will reward your for years to come.

Spider Plant

One last house plant that is good for beginners and easy to grow is the Spider Plant.  The Spider Plant looks lovely as a hanging plant and is easy to care for and propagate.  It will send off long shoots with little plantlets which can be rooted and grown as new plants.

Spider plants will like more light than any of the others I have mentioned so far. If you must put them in a South facing window, be sure to shield them by filtering the sun with a sheer curtain.  Otherwise the plant will become very light green and may die.  This is a sign that your plant is getting too much light.

A west or east facing window is probably a good spot for a Spider Plant. If yours is in a hanging basket, it will look great hanging in the window. Again, water carefully and don’t over water. You will soon have a bushy plant with long narrow variegated leaves.

Get Growing

So, if you have gotten a new plant, or have always admired someone else’s green thumb, give these easy to grow house plants a try. You might just find out that you have the knack and can grow beautiful plants. Good luck!